Time is an intriguing concept. We all know there can be too much of it, but most of the times we're running out of time. On top of that, every culture lives time in a different way.
On June, 5th, it was one year after the road blockade of indigenous peoples, protesting near Bagua in the north of Peru for their right to be consulted, had turned bloody, leaving 33 people dead and one police officer still missing. This year was to be different - a strictly peaceful ceremony in commemoration of all the victims, indigenous peoples, civilians and police officers alike.
On the eve of the 5th, there was a ceremony with representatives of the indigenous peoples making statements, youngsters chanting and playing music, and before all of that, one minute silence. It was odd to see how this one minute had turned into less than 30 seconds, despite the person standing next to the speaker keeping track of time. And even during those few dozens of seconds, people couldn't stay silent.
commemoration ceremony on the eve of the "baguazo" (c) Tom Van den Steen
It struck me that this was in stark contrast with the general time experience of people here in Peru. Normally, 15 minutes turn into 30 - at best - and when meeting someone, it's always good to ask what the actual arrival time should be if you want to avoid waiting for an hour or more. Or, when taking a bus in a more remote, less populated area.
After Bagua, we left for Chachapoyas, a good two hour and a half drive with one stop over. We were taken to the bus terminal from which the mini vans left for Pedro Ruiz, where we had to change for Chacha. When the bus leaves, we asked - "in half an hour," the man said. Well, we had our fingers crossed but knew it would take a little longer. Trustful we would leave soon, we paid our fare after some twenty minutes, when the guy came to collect our money and write down our names. Oddly, soon after that, the van left empty, leaving us at the same shoddy terminal. Somewhat surprised, we decided to keep our cool (which wasn't that easy with 30+ degrees) and wait for the van to return.
An hour had almost passed, and we were still stuck in Bagua. We decided to ask our money back and look for another way of getting to Chachapoyas. "I'm sorry, not possible, the driver has taken the money." When he'd be back - "soon". A big argument, the intervention of some helpful cops and the arrival of a few more passengers later, the driver mysteriously returned with the van and we were set to leave (at least until the gas station, where we pulled over for some gas). Oh privatisation of public transport...
Now we know - never pay your bus fare before the bus actually leaves.
